It was an Ambassador car. The driver opened the rear door for us and we entered. The driver’s name was Rasool, he was a Kashmiri Muslim. I waved to my aunt and we were on our way to Srinagar. Little did I know that my whole world would have changed by the time I returned!
Part 22
The journey from Jammu to Srinagar used to take about ten hours those days which meant we would reach our destination by three in the afternoon at least that is what we expected. By 5.30 we had crossed Nagrota and were on the hilly road to Udhampur. I never liked this stretch because the terrain was rocky, there was hardly any greenery around and it was very hot. The taxi did not have air conditioning. It was early morning so the heat was not a problem. Bhaisahab was at his vocal best.
“We are done for,Bittu, only mad people go to Srinagar at this time. If only Babuji and amma had agreed, we would have been saved this dangerous trip. They should have left with Papaji, why this persistence to stay on? Bittu, mark my words, we will not return alive. I heard the militants are on the lookout for those Kashmiri Pundits who left and are now coming back to get their belongings. The moment they identify us, they will shoot us, I am telling you”
I was lost in my own thoughts, thinking of Anita, recalling her last words to me over the phone. She had clearly said she would not follow the diktats of her father and she would marry me and only me. These words of hers were echoing in my mind and making me feel good. Bhaisahab’s doomsday predictions came as an intrusion and I felt a little irritated.
“Bhaisahab, why are you getting panicky, just relax, everything will be fine. Don’t forget, we have lots of friends over there, they will not let anything happen to us”
“Your son is right, Sahab, nothing will happen. I shall bring you back safely. Rest assured”
“ Rasool, you concentrate on driving and don’t drive so fast, I don’t want to die in an accident” Rasool was driving fast and he seemed to be a safe and confident driver but Bhaisahab had one more phobia-the phobia of meeting with accidents. I knew Rasool was going to have a tough time.
While all this was going on, we reached a place called Nandni. It was famous for Paneer pakoras and many people used to stop here for breakfast or evening snacks, depending on the time of day.
“I am feeling hungry yaar, let’s have something to eat. Rasool, stop the car” It was Bhaisahab at his authoritative best.
“Baisahab, don’t you think it is too early for breakfast, after all it is only 6.30? We will have breakfast at Kud”
“My dear Bittuji, who is talking about breakfast? I am only thinking of having some pakoras, what is wrong with that? Don’t worry, we will surely have proper breakfast later” I wondered what proper breakfast meant to him? Anyway, there was no room for argument, I knew arguing with him would be a waste of time. Rasool pulled over the car to the side and stopped in front of a small dhabba. Bhaisahab did not waste any time in ordering the best of paneer pakoras. I said no and so did Rasool.We had tea while Bhaisahab gulped down the pakoras and then asked for one more plate.
“Very tasty, Bittu, can’t resist myself” He said by way of an explanation. He had three plates of pakoras. Rasool and I exchanged a mischievous smile. There was the sound of a huge belch.
Wah, great, enjoyed them! You should have tried some”
“Anything else, Bhaisahab?”
“No, I am full, Rasool, move on”
We were on our way again and soon I could hear the sound of snoring. I looked to my left and there was Bhaisahab, sleeping very comfortably. The pakoras seemed to have acted as a sedative.
“Rasool, what exactly is it like in Srinagar? Tell me the truth, please”
“Bittuji, you will not believe me if I tell you the truth. It is better that you see for yourself. One thing I can assure you of is that you have nothing to be afraid of” I left it at that. I had other things on my mind. Now that my uncle was fast asleep, I could go back to my Anita. We crossed Udhampur and I didn’t realize it till Rasool mentioned it. I had no interest in the town and moreover the sun had started getting hot and had started interfering with my romantic thoughts.
About 20 kilometers later, we reached the place from where the uphill drive started. It was a steep climb, with lots of curves and corners. The road was not very broad so one had to keep an alert eye on the traffic coming from the opposite side. Thank god, Bhaisahab was still in a deep slumber otherwise Rasool would have had a difficult time. It was now that one could see the tall green trees and tall mountains in the distance. A cool breeze also welcomed us and I enjoyed every moment of it, more so because Anita was sitting by my side and I was describing the scenery to her. I had made up my mind long time back that we would have our honeymoon in Kashmir and I also made another decision. Rasool would take us around. I had started developing a liking for this gentle soul; he seemed to be full of care and affection. I did not feel that I had met him only that morning; it was as if I had known him all along.
I looked at my watch. It was 9 and we had reached Kud. It is a picturesque place situated on a hill. There are lots of eateries, you can get all kinds of food and it is famous for a particular kind of sweetmeat called patisa. It doesn’t have an English name. People also stop here to drink cold spring water and it is supposed to be good for health. Bhaisahab was still sleeping. It seemed the effect of the paneer pakoras had not worn off as yet. I was hungry and I wanted to eat something. I was sure Rasool must also be hungry. I asked him to stop and took the daring step of shaking Bhaisahab awake.
“Wh.. whha, what is it, has somebody attacked us? Are we going to be killed?”
“ Bhaisahab, wake up, we are in Kud and it is time for breakfast”
“Kud? Is this Kud? Seems to have changed a lot” I had no idea when he had visited this place last.
“ Bittu, I am not hungry, you have whatever you want to, I shall sit in the car” Rasool and I were about to move towards an eating joint when Bhaisahab shouted,
“Wait a minute, I am also coming. Come to think of it, I am also suffering pangs of hunger.” Where had all those pakoras gone?
We went to a small restaurant. I had egg parathas, Rasool had onion parathas and Bhaisahab asked for a four egg omelet along with paneer parathas. Rasool and I looked at each other and he winked. I had really started liking this fellow.
While Bhaisahab was eating, he was totally focused on his plate. He had no time for anything else. We finished our share of the food but my uncle continued eating and asked for one more paratha. I had never seen him eat so much, maybe it was the effect of the journey or the fear of terrorists but whatever it was, he was really enjoying each and every bite. At last, the mammoth meal came to an end. The payment was made and can you imagine who made the payment? It was me. I had heard stories of Bhaisahab’s parsimony but this was the first time I had come face to face with it.
“Don’t you worry, Bittu, I will pay you later” I wondered when that later would come!
We got back into the car and Rasool drove off. We had a long climb ahead of us. It was a wonderful stretch. Tall trees on both sides, lovely view of the valley below. I would surely bring Anita here. The beauty of the surroundings would be enhanced by her presence. How I missed her! I wished she had been with us. I should have never agreed to this visit. I should have said a firm no to my father. But I knew that would not have been possible, even my conscience would not have allowed it.
Within half an hour we were at Patni Top. This is the highest point on the Jammu-Srinagar National Highway, more than 7000 feet above sea level. It has become a well known tourist spot now but at that time there was nothing much there except a few government cottages. From there onwards started our downhill drive, replete with sharp curves and every curve would bring a loud comment from my uncle.
“Rasool, what is this, you nearly had us killed there!”
“Rasool, are you mad, can’t you drive slowly?’ He was going at a speed of 40 kilometers an hour. Rasool did not react at all; he kept on driving the way he was.
We crossed Batote, another town but much bigger than Kud. From Kud to Batote it had been cool, at times cold but the moment we passed Batote, the climate changed and so did the terrain. No more greenery, a dry mountain on one side and a deep gorge on the other.
“Bhaisahab, we will have lunch at Peedha. I love the Rajma-chawal of that place”
“Bittu, you just had a heavy breakfast, where is the room for lunch now?”
“That was almost three hours ago, it is nearing one o’clock now, and don’t you think it is time for lunch? And how can one pass Peedha and not have Rajmah Chawal?”
“Hmm, rajma chawal, well, I think you are right. We should eat at Peedha. I suddenly realized that I am also feeling hungry” I couldn’t help but smile.
It was 1.30 when we stopped at Peedah. There were not many people around. Last time I had come this way, the place had been crowded. Things had really changed. We ordered our plates of Rajmah Chawal and were waiting eagerly for the food when a young man, dressed in a loosely fitted cotton pheran , came up to us.
“Are you Kashmiri pundits?” His question was directed at Bhaisahab.
“Yes, we are” Bhaisahab replied calmly. “Any problems?”
“Why are you going to Kashmir?”
“Because it is our home, simple isn’t it?”
“Your home,huh? Wasn’t it your home when you decided to leave?”
“Why are you asking us all these questions? Go on your way, we have to eat our food”
“You know I have a gun underneath my pheran so you better not act funny. What is your name?” This last question was directed at me. I could see a look of fear in Bhaisahab’s eyes.
“My name is Lalit” I said with a little bit of fear in my voice.
“O.K. You come with me. The rest of you stay here till I come back. Don’t make any move, there are lots of our people watching you” Suddenly, Rasool got up, held the man by the arm and took him out onto the road. Rasool was saying something, both of them seemed to be having a heated argument. In the meantime, Bhaisahab and I were rendered speechless with fear. None of us said anything. Our eyes were glued to Rasool and that young man. Suddenly their argument came to an end and both of them started walking towards us with determined strides. Our fears increased….!
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